Dormy House has become renowned as one of the best hotels in the Cotswolds and now, with new head chef Ryan Swift on board, the restaurant’s reputation has taken a step up. Michael Purton found out whether the accommodation and food deserve all the praise.

Set within the 400-acre Farncombe Estate, Dormy House lies on the edge of the Cotswold Escarpment just above the picturesque village of Broadway, so as you arrive at the hotel you are not only impressed by the stunning building but also the surrounding scenery which is ripe for long, rambling walks.

With its stone fireplaces, flagstone flooring, oak panelling and open-plan lounges, the 17th-century farmhouse radiates relaxation, and there are extensions and cottage-like suites that create a sense of a little community within the grounds.

Despite the sprawling layout, there is no chance of getting lost upon arrival as there is a doorman waiting to greet you and lead you to reception to check-in over a glass of Pimms while he carries your bags to your room. These little touches – the drink, tour and doorman/guide – prepare you for the luxury you’re about to enjoy.

We stayed in one of the courtyard suites, which come with a patio, lounge and en-suite and, as with all of the 40 rooms, are individually styled in soothing creams, browns and greys with whitewashed beams and antique touches.

As well as the Nespresso machine and satellite TVs (lounge and bedroom) which have become expected in decent hotels, there was a tablet which provides hotel menus and is the means of ordering room service, a collection of glossy magazines and coffee-table books (The Perfume Bible proved a hit for my guest and I) and, most importantly, quite possibly the largest and most comfortable bed I’ve ever seen.

After settling into our room, we headed to the House Spa which sprawls over several floors within its own wing and includes a gym, thermal suite, lavender sauna, salt-infusion steam room, outdoor hot tub, 16m infinity edge pool, 10 therapists and a nail parlour lined with bottles of Veuve Clicquot (because, why not drink Champagne while receiving a manicure?). So, yes, it’s not bad as far as spas go. In fact, as my other half told me, it’s one of the most luxurious spas around.

Following an afternoon there, we were more than ready for dinner and had high expectations after reading about new head chef Ryan Swift, who joined Dormy earlier this year to work alongside executive chef Jon Ingram and create a new menu for one of the on-site restaurants, The Garden Room, and fashion an array of new dishes for the other, The Potting Shed.

We dined at The Garden Room, a modern space with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the green grounds and atmospheric lighting, and opted for the Tasting Menu (£65 per person), a seven-course spectacular created by Ryan, which comes with additional wines to accompany each stage (£38 extra). Here’s the menu:

Tasting Menu

  • Buckland Tomato

    Basil, Cotswold gold

Gribble Bridge, Biddenden Vineyards, Kent, England 2009

  • Billy’s Hen’s Egg

Peas, iberico

Sancerre, Domaine du Nozay, Loire Valley, France 2014

  • Tamworth Pig

Sage & onion, bramley apple, crackling

Cotswolds Cider

  • Halibut

Cauliflower, curry, lime

Gewurztraminer, Cave de Cleebourg, Alsace, France 2014

  • Farncombe Lamb

English Asparagus, wild garlic, morels

Pinot Noir, Carmel Road, Monterey, California 2013

  • Pre-dessert
  • Lemon

Pine nut, meringue, caramel

“Sticky Mickey” Marlborough, New Zealand 2014

*For vegetarians, there are substitute dishes for the meat courses.

As mentioned, the new head chef has a big reputation having been instrumental in the kitchen at a host of Michelin-star and AA-rosetted restaurants across Europe, and the quality of the food showed his expertise. Every dish was superb – both delicious and presented exquisitely – and the only minor criticism I can think of is that the portions were ‘haute cuisine’ sized and thus not massively filling, meaning that I was not completely stuffed at the end of the meal – whether that’s a positive or negative depends on how energetic you wish to feel after dinner.

The drinks menu was as impressive as the food, with a vast array of wines, cocktails, spirits and liqueurs. I opted for a gin and tonic with the Bathtub brand, while she went for a sauvignon blanc, and there were no complaints from either of us.

Breakfast was also served in The Garden Room and comprised of a continental-style buffet with cereals, bread, fresh fruit, cold meat and cheese, along with cooked fare such as eggs benedict and porridge, and even toast which comes in its own little bag. Like dinner, the food was excellent.

And excellent is the word that comes to mind when I look back on my stay at Dormy House.

It’s not exactly a cheap option, with rooms starting from £240 per room, per night based on two sharing and including breakfast, but you get what you pay for and if you want a luxury break in the scenic Cotswolds, you can’t do better.

5/5

For more, see www.dormyhouse.co.uk