TAKING a stroll into The Fox, a large gastro pub in Yate, the first thing that struck me was its sheer size.

During my time as Pub Spy, I have grown used to quaint country pubs, small in size but bursting with life and atmosphere.

The Fox has an altogether different feel to the pubs previously reviewed – more an establishment for the whole family than a traditional and atmospheric drinking pub.

That isn’t necessarily a criticism, but it depends on the target audience.

The second thing that struck me – right after I caught my breath from the long hike to my table – was that the pub has a two for one deal that applies to almost everything on the menu.

While this is no doubt an exciting offer, a glance at the prices reveals that a lot of dishes are over the £10 mark (something that I’m generally opposed to when buying pub grub). Despite this, it probably still works in the diner’s favour, allowing them to save a few more quid than if they ate, for example, at a Wetherspoons.

And the menu is impressive to boot. A good range of food is on offer but not to such an extent that it is overwhelming.

In the end I opted for piri-piri chicken wings as a starter and a wild boar and chorizo burger for my main. I chose a Heineken to accompany these choices, though a range of ales are available for those looking for something a little more exciting.

The food arrived promptly and was very tasty.

The chicken wings, which packed a punch with spices and a hint of lemon, were just enough to wake my appetite without being too heavy, so when the burger arrived I was more than ready.

I was startled that such a regular sized burger became a bit of a challenge as I neared its completion.

But all in all, it was a flavoursome meal and, while options with more-obscure meats are becoming more common, an intriguing addition to the burger section of the menu.

In recent years, perhaps decades, the burger has become a quintessential staple of the pub menu, and when done right it’s easy to see why.

A good burger is as filling as it is enjoyable and The Fox delivered on both of these counts.

My only criticism would be an ever-so-slight soullessness in the décor and atmosphere. But perhaps this criticism comes from my own prejudices.

The Fox is not trying to be a cosy country pub, the type of place one sips real ale by a wood-burning fire and knows the first names of all the staff.

It is, instead, a place for everyone and an excellent venue for a family meal.

SCORES Atmosphere: 7/10 Decor: 6/10 Staff: 9/10 Drink: 7/10 Food: 8/10 Prices: 8/10 Overall: 8/10