IT'S a sign of a good pub when you walk in at 11.30am on a Sunday, the place is full to the brim and the waitress is tentatively enquiring as to whether you’ve made a reservation or not.

Nestled at the foot of the Cotswolds, The Bell at Old Sodbury is just a five-minute walk east of Chipping Sodbury and within a respectable distance of both Bath and Bristol. Surrounded by gorgeous countryside, the late 18th Century pub prides itself on its drink, food and stylish décor.

The place does not look like much from the outside, but appearances are deceptive. Walking through the front door, I was impressed by the interior design, which gave the original features of the pub a delightfully modern twist. Think country chic: exposed brickwork, wooden beams and tartan upholstery.

An old pew sits in one corner of the room, made cozy by a crackling log fire and plush cushions. Yet despite the gothic elements of the pub (such as mounted wooden deer heads and wrought iron fittings), the overall result is warm, airy and remarkably contemporary.

I was shown to a table by a cheerful waitress, who took the time to make conversation despite the pub being packed.

Without being prompted, she produced a large jug of water and a glass before presenting me with the food and drink menu – a thoughtful touch.

To my delight, I discovered that the pub boasts a gin menu so extensive that it puts most cocktail bars to shame. And with a wide range of real ales, lagers, local ciders and wine – there is a beverage option for everyone.

With it being a Sunday, and it being lunch time, I felt obligated to order a meat and two veg dish – although “two veg”, here, would be a gross underestimation: side dishes for this pub lunch include cauliflower cheese, carrots, mange tout, roast potatoes, mashed potatoes and a large homemade Yorkshire pudding.

A sumptuous chicken breast, complete with all these trimmings, arrived at my table within 15 minutes of ordering.

 It was melt-in-your-mouth good: succulent, juicy and bursting with flavour. Topped with crispy skin and a sprig of rosemary, the tender meat just fell away from the bone.

With well-seasoned vegetables and creamy cauliflower cheese, the meal was almost one of the best Sunday roasts I’ve had in a very long time.

Almost – but not quite.

The dish was just too cold for comfort: in fact, I’d describe it as lukewarm at best.

I was reluctant to send it back to the kitchen out of fear that the sumptuous chicken (sourced from a local Bristol butchers) would return dry.

Out of hunger, I chose to carry on eating when asked if the meal was okay – so perhaps I have little cause for complaint.

Nonetheless, the temperature tarred what was otherwise a stellar culinary experience.

Dessert, however, somewhat made up for it.

 Instead of providing a menu, the waitress presented me with a platter of available desserts - a fail safe method of tempting even the fullest of customers.

I opted for a chocolate brownie with ice cream, but wondered, briefly, if it would be too rich to finish.

It was the kind of brownie that collapses at the touch of a fork. Sweet, but not too sweet; just sheer chocolate indulgence. Delicious.

Overall, The Bell at Old Sodbury was so close to perfect; it seems a shame that it didn’t quite hit the spot.

Atmosphere 9/10

Décor 8/10

Staff 10/10

Drink 9/10

Food 8/10

Prices 6/10

Overall: 8/10